Smoky Stuffed Jalapeño Chilies

As I've often commented (see previous posts), sourcing ingredients for Mexican food in England is not always the easiest task. And often it's the simplest ingredients that prove to be the most trouble to find.

For example: jalapeño chillies.

These little babies, which are so frequently stocked in your friendly neighborhood Tesco, were on this particular day nowhere to be found in the central Oxford area. Nowhere. Ancho chilies? The other slightly non-standard food item required by this recipe? Available by the truckload. And while I found it amusing that I couldn't find the main ingredient for a "Mexican" recipe found in a prominent English food magazine (Delicious, July 2010), the amusement did not extend past me asking the 5th store employee if they had any jalapeños. The amusement particularly had worn thin when the answer was no. So I improvised and invested in some Marks & Spencers baby chilies instead. Which were the perfect size and worked like a charm. These bite size morsels are definitely moreish. I doubled the recipe below in an attempt to satiate the appetites of 12, but I would say plan for at least 3 half peppers per person. There were definitive angry grunts from the people who hadn't swooped in to snag one before they were gone.


Ingredients

 

8 jalapeño chillies (or sweet baby chilies)
2 slices of white bread, crusts removed, for breadcrumbs (or Panko breadcrumbs)
2 tbsp olive oil, plus extra to drizzle
1 apple, peeled, cored and finely diced
2 banana shallots or 4 regular shallots, finely chopped (or half an onion)
8 fresh thyme sprigs, leaves picked and roughly chopped
2 garlic cloves, crushed
1 heaped tsp chipotles en adobo (available in major supermarkets and online at coolchile.co.uk)
       -or dried ancho chilies
Juice of ½ lemon
120g vegetarian goat’s cheese, diced or crumbled
75g grated vegetarian Parmesan-style cheese

 

Preparation

Halve the chillies lengthways (keep the stems intact) and remove the seeds. Plunge the chilli halves in boiling, salted water for 2-3 minutes to blanch. Refresh in cold water, then drain. This will soften them and temper their heat a little.

Meanwhile, whizz the bread in a blender to make breadcrumbs. Heat the olive oil in a heavy-based frying pan over a medium heat. Add the diced apple and fry for 3-4 minutes until it has started to colour. Turn the heat right down and add the shallot, thyme and some seasoning. Cook for 10 minutes until the shallots are soft. Add the garlic and chipotles and cook for another 2 minutes, then remove from the heat. When the mixture has cooled a little, stir in the lemon juice, to taste, then the goat’s cheese.

Place the chillies in a shallow baking dish. Divide the stuffing among them and scatter with the breadcrumbs. When you’re getting ready to eat, preheat the oven to 180°C/fan160°C/gas 4. Drizzle the chillies with a little olive oil and sprinkle with the grated cheese. Bake for 20-25 minutes until golden.

Middle Eastern/Mexican Avocado Dip

Trying to make guacamole in England is a lesson in perpetual frustration. It is case in point why Mexican food has never really, well, flourished here.

It's a simple question of ingredients. The humble avocado, needing the warm watery environs of places like California or Mexico, does not do well in the land of fish and chips. Avocados are not happy here. The ones offered at the grocery store are small green rocks. Even if you try and ripen these bad boys at home, most of your efforts will be in vain. They will go from rock to mush with about a 5 second window of "perfectly ripe". As such, making anything that requires the beautiful soft texture of a ripe avocado is foolhardy. To avoid said foolhardiness but still wanting an avocado-based dip, I found this recipe that requires a thoroughly mashed avocado, thus bypassing the texture issue altogether. It also involved tahini, a new-found love of mine.

This dip was gone in minutes, literally. Have it with tortilla chips in appreciation of its Mexican side, pita chips for its Middle Eastern side, or  raw veggies if you want to go the healthy way.

Ingredients

2 cloves garlic, cut in half, green shoots removed

Salt, preferably kosher salt, to taste

2 ripe avocados

3 tablespoons sesame tahini

1/4 cup fresh lemon juice (or lime juice, if you want more of a hint of Mexican flavors)

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

1 teaspoon cumin seeds, lightly toasted and ground (to taste) (or simply ground cumin)

Preparation

1. Place the garlic in a mortar and pestle with 1/2 teaspoon salt, and mash to a smooth paste. Cut the avocados in half, pit them and scoop out from the skins. Add to the mortar and pestle, and mash together with the garlic until the mixture is smooth. Work in the tahini, lemon juice, olive oil, cumin and additional salt to taste.

2. Scrape into a bowl, and cover with plastic wrap, setting the wrap right on top of the avocado. Refrigerate until ready to use.

Yield: Makes about 1 cup

Pork-Stuffed Chiles in Savory Tomato Sauce (Chiles Rellenos de Picadillo)

Step back kids. This recipe is an investment. There is salsa, meat, batter...all kinds of fun things to mess with but it takes time. I devoted an afternoon to the experience and while totally worth it, this dish is not exactly something you "whip up" after getting home from work at 6pm. This is from Rick Bayless' old-school book, Authentic Mexican, which reads more like an anthropology textbook than a standard recipe collection. For good reason. When he published this, in the nostalgic years of the late 80s, he had just made the career swap of a lifetime: anthropology student turned master chef.
Hey, Mexico can do that to you. Trust me.

I decided to make these the *comparatively* healthy way by pan frying them rather than deep frying them. It yields a different consistency from what many people are familiar with but it tastes just as good and you can feel moderately better about just how many of these you'll find yourself eating. 

I served the rellenos with stuffed tomatoes. In my mind, one stuffed vegetable really deserves another, don't you agree?

To the recipe!

Yield: 8 stuffed chiles, 4 servings
Time: Oodles

Ingredients
8 large fresh chiles poblanos
2 cups (1 recipe) Quick-Cooked Tomato Chile Sauce (recipe follows)
1 1/2 cups beef or pork broth
vegetable oil
1/2 cup flour plus 2 tablespoons for the eggs
3 cups (1 recipe) Minced-Pork Picadillo (recipe follows), at room temperature
6 large eggs, at room temperature
1 teaspoon salt
4 sprigs parsley, for garnish


Preparation

1. Cleaning the Chiles- Roast and peel the chiles (either roast them over a gas hob or stick them under the broiler until black and crisp), being careful not to overcook them or break off their stems. Seed them: make a slit in the side of each one, from the shoulder down nearly to the point; with an index finger, scrape the seeds loose from the seed pods (just underneath the stem); under a gentle stream of water, flush the chiles clean of al their seeds, then drain. If you want milder chiles, carefully cut out the veins that run down the inside flesh of each one. Dry the chiles inside and out with paper towels.

2. In a small saucepan mix the prepared tomato sauce (see recipe below) with the broth (adding 1/4 teaspoon each ground cinnamon and black pepper). Cover and place over very low heat.

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Quick-Cooked Tomato-Chile Sauce

Ingredients
3 medium-large round ripe tomatoes (roasted in the over until skins are wrinkled and easy to come off), peeled and cored OR one 28-ounce can good-quality tomatoes, drained
                 **NOTE: If you are making this with the pork stuffing, you can roast all the tomatoes at     the same time, see below for pork recipe**

2-3 jalapenos, stemmed
1/2 small onion, chopped
1 large garlic clive, peeled and roughly chopped
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
Salt, about 1/2 teaspoon

Preparation
For a more refined sauce, seed the tomatoes: Cut them in half across the middle and squeeze out the seeds and liquid. Roughly chop the tomatoes and placed n a blender or food processor.

If you want a milder sauce, first seed the chiles. Then chop them into small bits and add to the blender or processor, along with onion and garlic. If using a blender, stir to distribute the ingredients evenly, then process the mixture until pureed. (but still retaining a little texture)

Frying the sauce: Heat the oil in a medium-large skilled over medium-high. When it is hot enough to make a drop of the puree really sizzle, add it all at once and stir constantly for about 5 minutes, as the puree sears and cooks into a thicker, more orange-colored sauce. Season with salt and remove from fire.

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3. Stuff the chiles with the pork mixture (see recipe below), leaving room to reclose the opening. If a chile won't reform around the filling or if it is torn, "sew" it together with toothpicks, any that can be gently picked up by the stem without losing their filling are fine as is.

Minced Pork with Almonds, Cranberries and Sweet Spices (Picadillo Oaxaqueno)

Ingredients
3 medium ripe tomatoes (roasted, cored, peeled, and roughly chopped **see above for details on roasting tomatoes) OR 1 28-ounce can tomatoes, undrained
1 1/2 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 medium onion finely diced
1 clove garlic, peeled and minced
1 1/2 lbs. lean coarse-ground pork
3/4 teaspoons ground black peppercorns
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/8 teaspoon ground cloves
1/4 cup dried cranberries
4 teaspoons cider vinegar
1/4 cup ground almonds
Salt, about 1 teaspoon

Preparation
 For a picadillo using peeled fresh tomatoes, place them in a blender or food processor with 1/3 cup water, then process until smooth. Using canned tomatoes, simply puree them with their liquid.

Heat the oil in a large skilled over medium. When hot, add the onion and cook until sofe, about 5 minutes. Stir in the garlic and cook 2 minutes longer. Add the pork in a thin layer and fry, stirring frequently, until cooked and lightly brown.

Add the spices to the skilled along with tomato puree, cranberries, almonds, and vinegar. Simmer until reduced to a thick, homogeneous mass, 30-45 minutes, depending on juiciness of the tomatoes. Season with salt.

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4. Spread about 1/4 cup flour onto a plate, then roll the chiles in it, and shake off the excess.

5. Separate the eggs: whites into a clean mixing bowl, yolks into a small dish. Add the salt to the egg whites, then beat with a whisk or electric mixer until they are just stiff enough to hold a peak. Gently beat  in the yolks one at a time, followed by 2 tablespoons of flour, stop beating when flour is incorporated.

6. Heat a little vegetable oil in a large, well-seasoned skillet over medium. Spoon the batter into a round in the skillet and then lay a stuffed chile onto it. Sppon a little batter over the top. When browned underneath, flip them over and brown on the other side.

7. Drain on paper towels and keep warm in a low oven. Batter and fry the remaining chiles and keep with the others.

8. Ladle about 3/4 cup of brothy tomato sauce into each of the 4 warm plates, top with 2 chiles then spoon more sauce onto each chile for decoration. Garnish with parsley and you're done. Finally!

Mexico City-Style Quesadillas (Empanadas) with Cheese and Chile or Mushrooms

I have an intense fear of frying. Don't get me wrong, I love eating the result, but the process itself is a bit daunting. I'm still nursing oil scars from the last time I attempted to manipulate hot liquids. Anyway, scars were worth this particular venture, another Rick Bayless-inspired Mexican banquet. I used masa harina purchased from my local Whole Foods (local being London) and it worked perfectly in the recipe. The key is the baking powder, it makes the masa fluff up when cooking in the oil.

Don't feel you have to keep these two versions separate either. Mix the mushrooms with the cheese, put in more peppers, less, whatever strikes your fancy. I also added in some minced turkey meat with seasoning to satisfy the carnivores in my crew. They all worked perfectly. Because, honestly, what isn't good fried?

Now Rick Bayless calls these Mexico City Quesadillas. To me, they're empanadas, basically due to the fact that you deep fry them in oil. Mmmmm. Oil. Regardless, they're delicious and really, who's to quibble with names?

Makes 12 turnovers

Recipe from Season 6 of Mexico - One Plate at a Time


Ingredients

Dough
1 pound fresh-ground corn masa,
OR 1 1/4 cups powdered masa harina mixed with 1 cup plus 2 tablespoons hot tap water
2 tablespoons lard or vegetable shortening
1/4 cup flour (use 1/3 cup if working with powdered masa harina)
A generous 1/2 teaspoon salt
1 scant teaspoon baking powder

Cheese Filling (See Note)
10 ounces (about 2 1/2 cups) grated melting cheese like Monterey or a mild cheddar
1 large fresh poblano chile, roasted, peeled and cut into strips

Mushroom Filling (See Note)
12 ounces mushrooms, rinsed or wiped clean (I used dried porcini mushrooms, after soaking them in warm water for about half an hour- absolutely delicious)
1 tablespoons lard or vegetable oil
1/2 medium white onion, finely chopped
2 fresh serrano chiles (or 1 jalapeno), stemmed, seeded and finely chopped
1 1/2 tablespoon chopped fresh epazote (optional)

Vegetable oil to a depth of 1-inch

Note: One recipe of either the cheese filling or the mushroom filling will be enough to fill all 12 turnovers. If you make both fillings, you'll need to double the dough recipe for 24 turnovers.


Directions

1. The dough. In a large bowl, thoroughly mix the masa (fresh or reconstituted) with the lard or shortening, flour, salt and baking powder. Work in a little water, if needed, to give the dough the consistency of soft cookie dough. Divide into 12 balls and cover with plastic wrap.

2. The fillings. If you are using the cheese, divide it into 12 portions and press each portion into a flat oval about 2 x 2 1/2 inches. Set them aside with the strips of chile.

If working with mushroom, pulse them in a food processor until quite finely chopped. Heat the lard or oil in a large skillet over medium high heat. Add the mushrooms and cook, stirring regularly until all the liquid has evaporated. Add the onion, chile and epazote, and cook, stirring frequently, several minutes more, until the onions are soft. Scrape into a bowl. Taste and season with salt, usually about 1/2 teaspoon.

3. Form the molotes. Using a tortilla press, flatten a ball of the dough between sheets of plastic to make a medium-large (5-inch) thickish tortilla. Remove the top piece of plastic. Lay a portion of your chosen filling across half of the uncovered tortilla, making sure to leave a 1/2-inch border around the edge. If the filling is cheese, top with a strip of poblano. Slip a hand under the plastic beneath the uncovered side of the tortilla, then carefully fold the tortilla over the filling. Press the edges together to seal.

Peel the plastic off the turnover and lay on a tray covered with plastic wrap. Continue making the remaining masa balls into turnovers. Cover with plastic wrap.

4. Fry the turnovers. Heat the oil to 375 degrees, then fry the turnovers 2 or 3 at a time, until browned, about 2 minutes per side. Drain on paper towels and keep warm in a low oven until all are ready. Serve right away.

Chocolate Truffles with Anejo Tequila and Chipotle

Chocolate Truffles with Anejo Tequilla and Chipotle

Oh Rick Bayless. God of Mexican food. I mean, honestly, why wouldn't you combine chocolate, tequila and chili? All good things combined to make one amazing dessert. Oh yes. Amazing.

Ingredients

12 ounces 60% dark chocolate, roughly chopped
1/2 cup heavy cream
1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon chipotle chile powder
3 tablespoons anejo tequila or creme de mezcal
1/4 cup sifted cocoa powder for coating the truffles
1/4 teaspoon chipotle chile powder for coating the truffles


Directions

Place a medium saucepan filled with about 1 inch of water over low heat. Bring the water to a simmer.

Scoop the chopped chocolate into a heat resistant bowl which will fit in the saucepan without touching the water.
In a separate small saucepan, heat the heavy cream to a simmer. Pour the cream over the chopped chocolate, let sit for 1 minute, then stir.
Place the bowl onto the pan with simmering water and continue stirring until almost all of the chocolate has melted, about 2 minutes. Remove the bowl from the heat and add the tequila and the chipotle chile powder. Continue stirring until all the chocolate has melted.
Place the ganache mixture in the refrigerator to chill. It will take between 1 to 2 hours for the ganache to harden enough to roll into balls. Mix together the cocoa powder and chipotle chile powder. Using 1 tablespoon of ganache, roll into small balls. Place them into the cocoa powder mixture and roll to coat. Arrange the truffles on a serving tray and refrigerator until ready to serve.

COOK'S NOTES: There is a danger of the chocolate separating when you're heating it over the simmering water. If that happens (i.e. if you see the chocolate change colour and start to ooze oil), pour some hot water into the bowl with the chocolate and keep stirring. That should whip the chocolate back into shape and give it that nice glossy look again. This is a life-saving tip and has saved me on more than one occasion!