Brandy Hard Sauce (with Pear and Sour Cherry Brown Betty)

As I've lived in England for some time now, I felt that I had a pretty good understanding of the "dessert" culture over there across the pond. The fruit cakes, the mince pies, the gooseberry fools, the bread and butter pudding, the bannoffee pie...
All these desserts seemed to revolve around the basic (fundamental) concepts of butter, bread, and cream. I mean, they put custard on everything there. But, imagine my surprise when I learned (from an American newspaper of all places) about a concept so absolutely wonderful that I began to suspect that the Brits were keeping it from me on purpose. Why wouldn't you share something as wonderful as sweet whipped cream with alcohol in it?!

Even the concept is genius, showing just enough English organization and forethought with a healthy appreciation of alcohol (and a desire to include it in every meal). Imagine whipped cream, solidified. not frozen, mind you. Just solid. Like cold butter solid (well, because it's basically just cold butter).

The recipe from the New York Times pared it with a cherry and pear brown betty, which was delicious (especially as the cherries were also soaked in brandy), but really, any dessert will work with this. Particularly warm ones so you can watch the hard sauce melt into it, infusing your chosen dessert with buttery alcoholic goodness. Oh yes.

Hard Sauce

Ingredients

12 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened
1 1/4 cups confectioners’ sugar
1/4 cup Cognac or brandy
Pinch of grated nutmeg

Method

To make the hard sauce, in a medium bowl set an electric mixer on high and beat the butter until fluffy.
Reduce speed to low and add confectioners’ sugar. When the sugar is incorporated, set the speed back to high.
Add the brandy 1 tablespoon at a time and beat until combined. Beat in the nutmeg.
Transfer the sauce to a ramekin or bowl, cover and refrigerate.

Hard sauce can be made at least a week ahead, but allow it to come to room temperature before serving (about 20 minutes). 

Brown Betty

Ingredients
 
3 tablespoons Cognac or brandy
2/3 cup dried cherries
1/2 cup sugar
1 teaspoon grated nutmeg
1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
3 1/2 cups white bread or challah, cut into 1/2-inch cubes
7 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted
Grated zest of 1 lemon
2 pounds ripe pears(about 5 pears), peeled, cored and thinly sliced
3 tablespoons hard cider or apple cider.

Method

To make the brown betty, heat the Cognac or brandy in a small saucepan over medium heat. When the liquid has come to a simmer, turn off the heat and add the cherries. Allow them to absorb most of the liquid, about 20 minutes.

While cherries are standing, heat oven to 375 degrees. In a large bowl, whisk together the sugar, nutmeg and cinnamon. Set aside 2 tablespoons of the sugar mixture for sprinkling. Add bread, butter and lemon zest. Toss until sugar has dissolved and bread is completely coated.

In a shallow 1 1/2-quart gratin dish (or a 9-by-9-inch pan), scatter a little under half the bread cubes. Layer half the pear slices and half the cherries (along with any liquid) on top. Cover with a cup of bread crumbs and sprinkle with 1 1/2 tablespoons cider. Layer remaining pears, cherries and bread. Sprinkle top with remaining cider and reserved sugar-and-spice mixture.

Cover dish with aluminum foil and bake for 40 minutes. Take off foil and continue baking, until crumbs are golden brown and pears are very soft, about 15 minutes more. Serve warm with dollops of hard sauce.

Yield: 6 to 8 servings.

Apple Green-Chili Pie with Cheddar Crust and Walnut Streusel

Ok, ok, I know what you're thinking. Well, one of probably two things.

A) That recipe sounds disgusting! Why would you want to put cheddar with walnuts and chilis?! And let's not even mention that it's in a pie! Pie sacrilege!

Or

B) Mmmmm. Apples, cheese, and nuts. With spice? Count me in! But how to serve it? as a main course or a dessert?!

Well, dear readers, you may be surprised that, in fact, I was a steadfast member of Option A for a long while. The New York Times, in their infinite wisdom, declared that this year was the year of the pie (as opposed to the last few, which were apparently the years of the cupcake. I don't have time to keep up with these things). And among their many "new hip stylish" pie recipes was this little number. The people who developed it (some crazy hippies out in San Francisco apparently) swore to its deliciousness. And if San Franciscans and New Yorkers ever agree on something, well, it's worth a try.
And so I attempted the crazy masterpiece, not sure if this would result in such a horror that I would swear off pie-making for good (not that I was ever what one would call a prolific pie-maker).
But no! Once it was all assembled, baked, and cooled, and the first tentative bite was taken, I could see what both coasts had been saying. It was delicious. Sweet, with just a hint of chili (the New Mexican chilis used in the pie give it a smokey but not fiery flavor) and a great crunch of walnut streusel on top. (By the by, if you were looking to an answer for Option B's dilemma of whether this was a savory or sweet dish, this is most definitely a dessert. The chilis don't diminish at all the significant amount of sweetness in the walnut streusel and apples.
This was chili pie conversion.
Now, this perhaps is not the pie to serve to an unknowing audience. Despite my new-found love of chili pie, the dessert did not win over everyone (my father, in particular, couldn't get over the "weirdness" of it). But never you mind. Go ahead, try it. You'll (probably) like it.

Ingredients

For the crust: 
1 1/4 cups all-purpose flour
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/3 cup cold unsalted butter, cut into dice
1/2 cup grated sharp Cheddar cheese
5 tablespoons ice water, more as needed

For the filling
5 cups peeled and thickly sliced tart apples, such as Jonagold, Honeycrisp or Granny Smith (I used Granny Smith)
1/2 cup chopped roasted green Hatch chilies, mild or medium hot (see note)
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
1/2 cup granulated sugar
1/4 cup light brown sugar
1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon allspice
1/4 teaspoon nutmeg, preferably freshly grated
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/4 cup cornstarch

For the topping:
1/2 cup all-purpose flour
1/2 cup finely chopped walnuts
1/4 cup light brown sugar
4 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted

Method

1. Make the crust: In a food processor or mixer fitted with a paddle attachment, combine flour and salt. Add butter one piece at a time, while pulsing or mixing at low speed, until mixture is fine and crumbly. Transfer to a large bowl and toss well with the cheese. Add ice water one tablespoon at a time, mixing lightly with fingers just until dough holds together. To test, pinch a small amount of dough. If it is crumbly, add more ice water. Form dough into a ball, wrap loosely in plastic, then roll into a disk. Refrigerate at least one hour, or up to 3 days, before rolling. (Dough can be frozen for up to a month.)

2. On a lightly floured surface, roll dough into a circle at least 11 inches in diameter. Transfer to a 9-inch pie pan, preferably glass. Turn edges under to make a thick rim; flute rim by pinching into a zigzag pattern. Refrigerate until ready to bake, at least an hour.

3. Make the filling: In a large bowl, toss apples, green chilies and lemon juice together. In another bowl, mix dry ingredients and add to apples and chilies, tossing until thoroughly coated.

4. Make the topping: In a small bowl, mix flour, walnuts and brown sugar. Add melted butter and toss together until crumbly.

5. Bake the pie: Heat oven to 400 degrees. Using a slotted spoon, scoop filling into chilled crust, then drizzle with 2 tablespoons of juice from bottom of bowl. Sprinkle topping evenly over filling. Bake 10 minutes, then reduce heat to 375 degrees. Bake 30 to 40 minutes, or until filling bubbles at edge and crust is brown. Serve warm, with a scoop of vanilla ice cream on the side.

Yield: About 8 servings.

Note: Roasted green Hatch chilies from New Mexico can be ordered from newmexicanconnection.com, and are sometimes found frozen in grocery stores. Drained canned green chilies are acceptable.

Phoenix Restaurants: Vietnamese Kitchen

Photo taken of the interior, from Yelp.com

 Phoenix has long suffered from a lack of good (or, rather, any) Vietnamese restaurants. So, imagine my surprise and delight when my mother informed me that there was a "new little Vietnamese place" which had opened up in a nearby strip mall. From the front, the place looked a bit dubious. Dark glass and no menu outside doesn't exactly help in a mall where your neighbors are a "Cash for GOLD!" place and a dentist. But once you enter, oh my. You could immediately tell you were going to get a good meal. The only minor downside was the bizarre "framed" tv set (as seen in the photo to the right) which was playing daytime soaps. As we had been seated directly in front of it, it was hard to ignore (and really whatever Brad was going to say to Tiffany's evil twin on this week's Days of Our Lives, I really couldn't have cared less).

As previously mentioned, I'm a bit of a sucker for Asian soups. Coconut-based confections especially, but really anything with noodles, vegetables, and perhaps a bit of protein (hey, even tofu counts), and I'm sold. When I opened the menu to discover that this place specialized in Vietnamese pho, I knew I had found the right place. The soups are served fresh and hot, with cilantro, lime, and bean sprouts (all authentic, I'm told) with a variety of condiments on your table so you can adjust the spiciness of your dish as you see fit.

And so, the sad lack of (good) Vietnamese restaurants in Phoenix has ended. Huzzah! My trips home will never be pho-less again.

Phoenix Location:
20235 North Cave Creek Road
Phoenix, AZ 85024-4424
(602) 788-5535
Yelp's Review

Fluffy Make-Ahead Dinner Rolls

 

Oh, dinner rolls. Is there anything better? I'm not a bread snob. No, no. Anything with a nice carbohydrate base will do just fine for me. Few requirements. Few needs. 

So I couldn't pass up the chance to make my own "straight from the 1950s" dinner rolls when I stumbled across this recipe. 

Well, I almost did when I saw that they took up to 5 hours to make. But ah well, I was struck with the Christmas spirit and made them anyway. And (as you'll see), the 5 hour estimate was way over. I mean, they aren't 30 minute rolls or anything, but don't think you'll be chained to the kitchen for an entire day and a half.

These, like the "impossible breakfast casserole" come from the January 2007 edition of Cook's Country. And they looked so buttery and delicious. Well. You find a way of turning these down. 

But, be warned, dear readers. These rolls are temperamental. Knead too long and you'll end up with dense starchy things. Sure, they'll look fabulous, but they'll sit in your stomach like a lump of lead. Be gentle.

Makes 15 large rolls

Ingredients

3 tbsp. unsalted butter, plus 2 tbsp. for bowl and baking dish

1 1/2 cups whole milk

1/3 cup honey

4 tbsp. vegetable shortening

5- 5 1/2 cups all-purpose flour

1 tbsp rapid-rise or instant yeast

2 tsp salt

1 large egg, plus 1 large egg beaten with 1 tbsp water

Method

Adjust oven rack to middle position and heave oven to 200 degrees F. When oven reaches 200 degrees, shut oven off. Grease a large bowl with 1 tbsp. butter. Line 13 x 9 inch baking dish with foil, leaving overhang on all sides. Grease foil with 1 tbsp. butter.

Place milk, honey, shortening, and remaining 3 tbsp. butter in large measuring cup. Microwave on high power until milk is warm (110 degrees) and butter and shortening begin to melt, 1-2 minutes. Stir well.

Mix 4 1/2 cups flour, yeast, and salt in bowl of standing mixer fitted with dough hook. Turn mixer to low and slowly add milk mixture. After dough comes together, increase speed to medium, add 1 egg, and mi until dough is smooth, about 2 minutes. Add another 1/2 cup flour and knead until dough is  shiny and smooth and comes away from sides of mixing bowl, 6 to 7 minutes. (add up to 1/2 cup more flour if dough is too sticky) Turn dough onto floured surface and knead briefly to form smooth cohesive ball. Transfer dough to buttered bowl and turn to coat. Cover bowl with plastic wrap and place in turned-off oven until dough has doubled in size, 50-60 minutes. 

Punch dough down on floured surface and divide into 3 equal pieces. Roll each piece into thick cylinder and cut each cylinder into 5 equal pieces. Working one piece at a time (keep remaining pieces covered with plastic wrap), form dough pieces into smooth rounds and arrange in a prepared baking dish. Lightly press on dough rounds so that they just touch each other. Cover baking dish with plastic wrap and return to turned-off oven until dough rounds have doubled in size, 50-60 minutes.

Remove dish from oven and heat oven to 375 degrees. Unwrap baking dish and brush rolls with egg-water mixture. Bake until rolls are deep golden brown, 25-27 minutes. Remove from oven and cool on wire racks for 5 minutes. Using handles of foil sling, remove rolls from baking dish and cool on wire rack.  (Note: Ok, here's where the recipe says you should cool these puppies for an hour. Ridiculous. They also say that after this, you should cool for another TWO HOURS! after this. My rolls were room temperature in 15 minutes and delicious. So forget that.)

Chicken Laksa

 

Oh soup, how I love thee. And, really, any kind will do. Well, that isn't entirely accurate. The British have a way of preferring "blended vegetable" soup that I just can't get behind. No chicken noodle. No hearty whole vegetables with a little pasta. Nope. Carrot and coriander. Potato and leek. Tomato. All just blended versions of various vegetables. Give me a hearty soup with, well, bits in it any day. 

And on that note, we come to laksa. I have also fallen deeply and madly in love with Asian soups over the past several years. The British may be clueless when it comes to a warming bowl, but Asia has it down pat. I'm also a complete sucker for anything that comes with a coconut milk-based broth. So sue me. 

Anyway, the good people at Sunset magazine must have heard my yearns for a good "chunky" soup, for in their January edition, they featured a whole spread on various hearty soups. One of which was laksa. They insisted that, despite the arm-length long ingredient list, it was an "easy" or "fast" soup. Ok, this isn't technically true. And some of the ingredients are a bit hard to find (e.g. "shrimp paste" whch I was only able to find after a New Year's sojourn to the land of all Asian-based products, San Francisco). In the first incarnation of this soup, with no shrimp paste in sight, I relied on some Mexican canned shrimp (which is as dubious as it sounds). The flavors still worked well but I wanted to see how the soup tasted with the shrimp paste. And, oh yes, t'was worth the trip. So, hey, if you're one of those people (like me) that somehow doesn't have all of the following ingredients to hand, never fear, the soup is delicious with any Western versions of items you happen to dig up. If, however, you are lucky enough to have the real ingredients available, by all means, indulge. This soup will not fail you. 

Ingredients

2 tbsp coriander seeds
1 tsp. black peppercorns
1 tsp. cumin seeds
1 tsp. fennel seeds
4 cloves
1/4 tsp. ground tumeric
5-8 dried arbol chiles, stemmed
2 lemongrass stalks
3 tbsp. vegetable oil
1 lb., skinned chicken thighs, cubed
1 tsp. shimp paste (or dubious canned shrimp, see above)
3 large shallots, thinly sliced
1 can (13.5 oz.) coconut milk
1 qt. reduced-sodium chicken broth
2 tsp. sugar
3 tsp. kosher salt
1 cinnamon stick
6 oz. mung bean sprouts, rinsed
8 oz. wide rice noodles
1/3 cup mint leaves, torn
1/3 cup cilantro leaves, torn
lime wedges
sambal oelek chili paste

Method

Grind coriander, peppercorns, cumin, fennel, cloves, turmeric, and chiles coarsely in a spice grinder. Peel tough outer layers from lemongrass, then mash core with a meat mallet or small, heavy frying pan.

Heat oil in a large pot over medium heat. Add chicken, shrimp paste, shallots, and reserved spices and cook, stirring constantly, until fragrant, 2 minutes. 

Pour in coconut milk, broth, sugar, and salt; add cinnamon and lemongrass. Bring to a boil, then immer, covered, 20 minutes.

Boil bean sprouts in a large pot of boiling water until softened, 2 minutes. Transfer sprouts to a bowl. Add noodles to pot and cook until firm, 4 minutes. Drain; rinse well. 

Divide sprouts and noodles among the bowls. Ladle in soup (remove cinnamon and lemongrass) and top with mint and cilantro. Serve with limes and sambal. 

The aforementioned authentic (and hard to find) shrimp paste